There are many plants related to winter holidays and gift-giving. I have gathered some tips to make the most of your plants:

When buying plants, especially temperature-sensitive plants such as poinsettia, shop on warm days and make sure to protect the plants before taking them out of the store. Purchase plants at the end of the shopping trip; unload the goods when you return home. When you give them as gifts, please use the same concept-finally in the car, give them first.

Drainage is still very important. Make sure to remove or punch holes in any containers or wrappers covering the bottom of the pot. Place a dish or tray under each pot to avoid water damage to the surface.

The felled trees should be placed in a support with a reservoir, and the water volume should be checked daily. Consider adding a waterproof pad under the tree frame to protect your floor from damage. Do not keep the felled trees indoors for more than a week.

Do not use real candles on the Christmas tree, and only turn on the lights when there are people in the room.

Use cold lights for interior decoration. They do less damage to the plants you intend to keep. Decorate the fragile Norfolk pine tree with light ornaments and the tiniest lamp. The branches are easily damaged and will not regenerate.

Do not allow sensitive plants to touch the outer window glass. Avoid placing them in vents, return air vents, stoves, fireplaces, or outdoor exits.

Holly does not like warm and dry environments, so it is best used for outdoor arrangements or wreaths. You can spray or soak the cut holly in water to extend its service life, but pay attention to the sharpness of dried holly.

Rotate your amaryllis plants regularly to keep the peduncle straight. If you plan to keep the bulbs next year, remove the pedicels after the flowers have withered, but water and plant green plants until the beginning of next fall. Then let them dry out and sleep. When new green growth appears, water and enter bright light to bloom for another season next winter.

Those are some of the columns you wrote (referring to Chuck’s response to the question of hedging his privet last week). With one small exception, you did cover the subject well. Does the age of the plant affect the expected result? I don't think it is because my father's house has a hedge that his father planted long ago.

Re: Feeding. I have been hesitating because I suspect that all the rearing roots are on the lawn, and I don't want to encourage massive growth directly under the stems.

Your views on pruning are consistent with my usual practice of pruning shrubs from the inside out. Of course, trying to do this on a hedge will be a difficult task, but I might try it; maybe in a limited area and check the results that should be obvious in a short time.

I don't think I have a small animal or fungus problem, but I will look more closely.

Anyway, thanks for your reply. I don’t know how many young girls there are now, but in fact, many of the things you write are applicable to many types of shrubs.

I tried to find a definite lifespan for the privet, but only found some vague references to specific hedges. Thirty to thirty-five years old is a relatively common age range, and many people live to more than fifty years old. Age may be a factor in the decline of privet. Older plants are weaker, less resistant to pests and diseases, and usually die slowly, taking two to three years.

One option I didn't mention last week is rejuvenation trim. You can trim the plant to about 6 to 12 inches from the soil and let it grow again to reach the desired height. Privet is growing fast, so if you can wait a few years until the hedge is fully restored, this may be an option.

Sue Kittek is a Liberty Garden columnist, writer and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper via grdnkpr@gmail.com or send an email to: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.

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Planting: Use winter pansies, chopped vegetables and rope, small evergreen trees and holly to light up the winter landscape. Collect any remaining spring flowering bulbs and store them in a cool area at a temperature of about 40° F or lower for 8 to 12 weeks, then bring them into force. Sow seeds that require a cold period to germinate.

Seasonal: Buy gifts and gift cards for the gardeners on the Christmas list. Clean, inspect and repair the decorations before installation, and discard all damaged things. Secure all decorations to avoid damage or blow away. Remove the mushy leaves after frost. Remove used annuals and vegetable plants from pots and beds. Keep the path free of dead plants and leaves. Allow plants to use seeds as food for wild animals. If you are buying a live potted plant or burlap Christmas tree, find a suitable planting site, dig it out and store the soil in the garage, cover it or put it in a container.

Lawn: Rake, blow or cover fallen leaves on the lawn. The matted leaves can breed mold problems and prevent water from entering the soil. Keep freshly sown or turfed lawns watered; make up for rain in less than an inch. Fill holes and low spots in the lawn.

Housework: Bring easy-to-remove flower pots and lawn decorations or wrap large statues to avoid damage in winter. Store empty clay, clay, or plastic pots in a dry, protected area to prevent cracking. Stop pruning before late winter or early spring. Mark out beds, newly planted plants, plants that break dormancy later in the spring, and delicate plants. Stay away from them when decorating or removing snow. Apply winter mulch after the ground freezes.

It rains less than an inch in a week. Water any newly planted plants at any time until the ground freezes. Check the stored amaryllis bulbs for new growth. Water and move to a warmer area, then gradually enter indirect light. Clean up the vegetable garden and compost garbage. Destroy or discard diseased or infested plants. From now until next spring, compost or manure tops are used. Dump the standing water and remove any items that might collect rainwater. Check the caulking around doors and windows. Repair immediately to prevent the entry of rats, ladybugs and bed bugs. Repair or replace damaged screens and garden hoses.

Protect deer, rabbits and marmots from vulnerable plants. Reapply the taste or odor deterrent. Clean and fill the bird feeder regularly. Clean up spilled seeds and empty shells. Dump, scrub, and refill the bird basin at least once a week. In cold weather, use a small heater to keep the water flowing.

Clear drains and direct rainwater runoff away from the foundation of the house.

Tools, equipment, and supplies: Clean and maintain summer/autumn equipment, then store or send it in for repair.

Check winter equipment and repair or replace as needed. Use fresh gas, check and/or replace engine oil and spark plugs.

Safety: Keep pets, children and other people away from mowed or swept areas.

Store garden chemicals in a room away from pets and children. Discard obsolete in local chemical collection activities. Photograph storm damage and file it in time before cleaning up or repairing insurance claims. Watch for tick bites whenever you are outdoors and the temperature is about 50°F or warmer. Use an insect repellent containing DEET on the skin. Apply permethrin product to clothing. When working in the garden, wear light-colored clothes, long sleeves, a hat, and long pants. Stay hydrated. Drink water or other non-caffeine, non-alcoholic beverages. Even in cold weather, apply sunscreen, wear a hat, and limit sun exposure. Wear closed-toe shoes and gloves; use goggles; use ear protection when using any loud power tools.