Still thoroughly enjoying your column. The problem is a “weed, vine,” growing in a patch of iris. These have been here decades and we pulled them, but they have come back with a vengeance. Is there anything we can do to get rid of them without destroying the iris bulbs? Keep up the good and informative articles. Stay healthy and safe.

Judith sent a picture and I believe what she has is Bishop’s weed (Aegopodium podagraria, a.k.a ground elder or goutweed). It is an intruder, from Europe, Northern Asia and Siberia. Brought in as an ornamental, it is resistant to deer, insects and disease, spreading quickly as a ground cover.

Bishop’s weed escaped cultivation and has been spreading from Rhode Island since about 1863. While easy to grow and attractive, it is considered invasive in Pennsylvania.

Within the iris bed, your only alternative is persistent hand pulling and lots of patience.

I would like to thank you for your column which always has such helpful tidbits. I am hoping you can answer a question I have about my potted hibiscus. It has done well with many flowers until last week. Suddenly, all the leaves are turning yellow. I had fertilized with a seaweed product and wonder if this was too much for the plant. I have continued leaf growth but no blossoms. I trimmed it several inches hoping to restore its flowering on new wood. So far that has not happened. I am so impatient for it to recover that I plan to use a blossom booster fertilizer this week.

Last year I had a beautiful healthy full and many blossomed hibiscus in the same location so I think there is plenty of sun. I do allow the soil on the top 2 inches to dry out between waterings.

Thank you for whatever help you may provide, even commiseration.

Fran and I have also grown potted hibiscus plants. One lasted over 10 years, sometimes almost leafless, sometimes yellow, but mostly full, leafy and covered with beautiful flowers.

Since Ellen is growing hers in a pot, I’m guessing we are talking about a tropical hibiscus, also called a Chinese hibiscus. They have some specific needs:

So what makes leaves turn yellow? Many things:

What else should you know:

Root pruning is an option if you want to keep the plant in the same pot but it needs more room. Do not remove more than a third of the roots.

You can prune to remove damage, shape plant, control size, reduce watering needs and encourage branching.

When repotting, allow the plant to rest in light shade for about two weeks after transplanting.

I would recommend more careful watering with attention to removing collecting water in saucers. If you are fertilizing, cut back or find a mixture for hibiscus (9-3-13, 2-4-18, or similar values). Check for pests and examine the roots for rot.

We have had some luck with micronutrient solutions like Ironite or Spray-n-Grow. We are currently testing one on Jack’s tomato patch. So far treated plants are outgrowing and out flowering untreated ones but it is still early.

Last week there was a question about ferns in baskets. This is one reader’s solution to watering without a mess:

I’ve had great success over many years in having my ferns thrive outside hanging on my shady front porch. I place the ferns in their original pots in a decorative basket containing a plastic liner. They don’t seem to mind occasional wet feet and the water remains in the pot rather than flowing on the ground if the soil has dried out.

Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.

Planting: Plant a final crop of snap or pole beans, radishes, and carrots. Plant or pot up summer bulbs and tubers such as dahlias, cannas, calla lilies, and caladiums. Replace spent containers of pansies with heat-loving annuals. Move the pansies to cool shade and keep them watered during the summer if you want to keep them for the fall.

Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Make sure the soil is dry enough to work — Don’t dig or plant in mud. Use annuals for containers, annual garden beds and to fill in bare spots in perennial or shrub beds. Shop for summer bulbs.

Seasonal: Stalk tall flowers and provide supports for vining plants. Cut back boltonia by half the size of the plant. Cut Joe-pye weed back to three feet tall. Cut back candytuft to encourage bushiness. Shear back woodland phlox (P. divaricata)

Deadhead sea thrift (Armeria), centaurea, centranthus ruber, dianthus, fringed bleeding heart (Dicentra exima), hardy geraniums, bearded irises, red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria/tritoma), catmint (Nepeta), herbaceous peonies, oriental poppies, pincushion flowers (Scabiosa).

Fertilize Siberian irises, summer phlox (P. paniculata) and Shasta daisies with a light application of balanced fertilizer

Divide spring-blooming perennials after they finish blooming. Cut back peony flower stems as the blooms fade. Allow the greens to grow until fall then cut them back to the ground. Clip back iris flower stems as the blooms fade; divide plants in crowded beds.

Pinch back helenium, chrysanthemums and asters to promote bushy growth and more flowers. Continue to pinch back new tips at two-week intervals until early July. Test soil for new beds, Retest soil in poorly performing areas or those that haven’t been tested in the last 3-5 years. Apply corn gluten-based weed control in the garden and establish a schedule for reapplication, usually at four to six-week intervals

Lawn: Keep newly-seeded or sodded lawns watered; supplement rain in weeks where less than an inch. By mid-June, apply spring fertilizer treatments. Apply preemergent crabgrass control in the next few weeks. Fill in holes and low spots in lawn.

Chores: Harvest crops regularly, at least every other day. Check hoses; replace washers and correct leaky connections. Dump standing water and remove anything that may collect rainwater to help control mosquito populations. Check seed inventory for late crops and fall planting.

Inventory and restock seed starting and potting supplies. Clean, disinfect and store pots and trays used for seed starting and transplants. Water any recent plantings and containers any time we experience a week with less than an inch of rain. Fix damaged screens and garden hoses. Note damaged caulking around doors and windows. Dump standing water and remove anything that may collect rainwater to help control mosquito populations.

Provide deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents. Clean and fill bird feeders regularly. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls. Dump, scrub and refill birdbaths at least once a week. Consider setting out nesting materials if you have them.

Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from house foundations.

Tools, equipment, and supplies: Check spring equipment and supplies, repair or replace. Sharpen blades, get fresh gas, check and/or replace oil. Send mowers and tractors for tune-up or repair.

Safety: Clear lawns of debris before mowing and make sure pets, children and others are well away from the area being mown.

Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children. Discard outdated ones at local chemical collection events. Photograph storm damage before clearing or repairing for insurance claims and file promptly.

Any time you are outside and the temperatures are about 50°F or warmer watch for tick bites. Use an insect repellent containing Deet on the skin. Apply a permethrin product to clothing. Wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in the garden. Stay hydrated. Drink water or other non-caffeinated, nonalcoholic beverages. Even in cold weather, apply sunscreen, wear hats and limit exposure to sun. Wear closed-toe shoes and gloves; use eye protection; and use ear protection when using any loud power tools.