The ivy removal project filled this huge container. OSU extended service

Q: I just removed all ivy (I think it’s British ivy) hedges that can fill a 20 x 8 x 8 foot container. It can be said that this is an arduous task I stupidly completed by hand. I even tried to remove as many roots as possible, but they never seem to end. We will eventually do landscape design on the slope. Before we do this, we need to know what is the best way to get rid of the rest or as many root systems as possible.

We think that skid steer loaders or small excavators may give us the best chance of pulling up as much as possible, including tree stumps, and then the cardboard/cover combination, hoping to rot/keep it. We are still drawing up a long-term plan for how to deal with slopes, but the short-term goal is to solve this problem. Do you think this is a good choice? Any suggestions on how to get rid of this creature once and for all? -Marion County

Ivy removal started on the slope of the homeowner. OSU extended service

Answer: Wow! Your efforts have left a deep impression on me. The photos show amazing progress.

I think it is a good idea that you plan to use the device to remove as many root systems as possible. Ivy is difficult to manage because even the smallest amount of roots or stems will re-germinate. You will want to follow the site for several years and stay informed about any re-sprouting conditions.

What I am not so confident about is the plan to use cardboard and mulch to kill the ivy. I haven't seen any research yet, but some sources suggest either spreading tarpaulin on the site or using a very deep covering (it is said to be at least 8-12 inches) to block light and prevent plant fragments from re-sprouting. On your slopes (or your sawdust budget), this depth of coverage may not be feasible.

Will the cardboard cover combination block enough light like a deep cover? That is an unknown. If you try this technique, use as thick an overlay as possible. Also check the area regularly, especially the edges. Seeing any tendrils/vines slipping out from under the mulch will starve the root system to death. Since this is a slope, you may need to re-cover the cover after a heavy rain event to ensure that the area is covered. – Brooke Edmonds, Extension Horticulturist at Oregon State University

Question: What is the best product to prevent powdery mildew of honeysuckle? I have cleaned it. The old leaves and dead material have been removed at the base. -Washington County

A: It is a good practice to clean up fallen leaves and debris that may be infected. Does your honeysuckle show signs of mildew?

If so, on a dry day (not this week), you can spray the bushes with homemade baking soda/vegetable oil spray. Use 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of any vegetable oil in the spray bottle, then fill it with water, shaking each time you spray to keep the ingredients mixed.

The baking soda will kill the fungal spores, and the oil is used as a sticker to keep the spray on the leaves longer. Spray both sides of the leaves. This is an organic spray that will not harm insects or pets/humans.

Pruning and maintaining good airflow throughout the plant is essential to prevent the leaves from becoming moldy. Is your plant evergreen, which means it will not lose its leaves? These plants are hardy and can grow quickly, so you need to pay attention to the airflow regularly. However, at this time of the year, there should not be any new growth.

If your plant is not evergreen and has lost its leaves, now is a good time to prune because you can see where the cross branches are. First clean your scissors with a little bleach and water, and then incline the cut so that the water drips from the cut.

If your plant has not lost its leaves, look for an area where you can trim and open the plant for better airflow.

Also, although you have cleared the area at the bottom of the plant, some compost (with 6 inches of space between the plant and the plant) is a good idea. It will slowly add nutrients to plants to promote good growth in spring. You can use bagged soil as a loft bed. Stack it about 4-5 inches high and about 12 inches away. The space of the plant prevents mice and other rodents from gnawing at the base of the plant. If the compost is next to it, they will cover and damage the plants.

I added some additional information via these links here and here. – Sheryl Casteen, Master Gardener Promotion at Oregon State University

Early spring bulb OSU promotion service​​

Q: It is the first time that I plant flowers in the form of a cut flower garden. I ordered buttercups, sea anemones, tulips and daffodil bulbs. For sea anemones and buttercups, I soaked them for four hours, and then pre-germinated half potting soil and half perlite for 12 days. Then around the first week of November, I planted all the bulbs on my raised bed.

Last week I put a hoop and a layer of antifreeze cloth to protect them from the cold. There is also a drip line below. I am shocked at how many ground anemones and buttercups have grown (I look forward to the green plants in spring.).

Is it normal to have green growth on the ground in December? I hope my pre-germination process and the warm weather did not induce them to try to bloom now. I am also curious whether I should do more layering of the cream cloth. Finally, should I worry about watering them all winter? – Clackamas County

Answer: You may bring unnecessary care to the bulbs and disrupt their natural circulation in the process. Soaking bulbs "cheats" them into thinking that this is the flowering time, much earlier than useful. In our mild climate, they don't need winter protection, so you can remove the hoops and save them as less hardy annual plants.

This article explains why we plant spring-flowering plants in the fall and leave the root formation to nature.

Ranunculaceae (ranunculus and anemone) are slightly less cold-tolerant than tulips and daffodils, and can be planted in early spring when the soil starts to warm. They do not need to be soaked. – Kris LaMar, Master of Promotion Gardener at Oregon State University

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